Sewing-machine binder



(No Model.)

J. F. J. QUNNING. SEWING MACHINE BINDER.

No. 316,359. Patented Apr. .21, 1885.

' w a 2 f f UNITED STATES PATENT Crrrcn.

JAMES FQJ. GUNNING, OF NEW HAVEN, CONNECTICUT.

SEWING-MACHINE BINDER.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 316,359, dated April21, 1885.

Application filed August "28, 185 2; Renewed September 2!), 1884. (Nomodel.)

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, J AMES F. J. GUNNING, of New Haven, in the county ofNew Haven and State of Connecticut, have invented a newImprovementinBindingAttachments for Sewing-Machines; and I do herebydeclare the following, when taken in connectionwith the accompanyingdrawings and the letters ofreference marked thereon, to be a full,clear, and exact description of the same, and which said drawingsconstitute part of this specification, and represent, in

Figure 1, a top or plan view; Fig. 2, a vertical central section; Figs.3, 4t, and 5, detached views.

This invention relates to an improvement in sewing-machines,orappliances to be attached thereto for the purpose of binding the rims ofhats, the object being to make the machine substantially automatic asto'the guiding of the hat during the operation of binding; and itconsists in the combination of devices, as more fully hereinafterdescribed, and particularly recited in the claims.

Arepresents the work-plate of the machine; B, the feed; 0, the needle,all of which are arranged relatively to each other, and so as to operatein the usual and well-known manner, and require no description in thisspeeiiication.

D is the guide for the edge of the rim ofthe hat, which is secured tothe table A by a setscrew, E. The opening through the guideplate islarger than the body of the screw, so as to permit a considerablemovement of the guide. On the working-edge of the guide are severalanti-friction rolls, a a, against which the edge of the hat runs, and sothat the several rolls together will operate upon a considerable extentof the edge of the rim. The'first roll is about in line with the needle,as seen in Fig. 1, the others farther back, or so as to bear upon theedge beyond the needle. The plate may be adjusted to a greater or lessdistance from the needle, and so as to change the relation of the rollsto the needle by means of the adj usting-screw.

In different sizes of hats it will be necessary to change the positionof the several rolls to some extent, because of the varying curves ofsuch hats-that is to say, suppose, as shown In making the adjustment ofthe plate to adapt it to the various curves and positions required, Iarrange the set-screw .at one side, as seen in Fig. 1, and make a slot,F, in the guide-plate, and on the work-plate arrange a stationary stud,b, which extends up through that slot. This stud I make so as to presenta V-shaped edge, and then on the plate I hinge a bar, d, its edgeopposite the hinges serrated, as seen in Fig. 1, and so that one of theserrations or notches will engage with the edge ofthe stud b when thebar is turned toward the stud; but when turned away the plate is freefrom engagement with the stud. This stud then, when engaged with the bar(1, forms a center upon which the plate may be rocked, so as to changethe relation of the rolls to adapt it to a greater or less diameter ofrim, thelarge opening through the plate for the set-screw permittingsuch rocking movement.

The position of the guide is varied for different widths of binding bymoving the plate toward or from the needle and engaging the bard'withthe stud b when the proper position is attained.

Upon the opposite side of the needle a guide.

is constructed to run upon the inside of the crown against its loweredgethat is, at the junction of the crown with the rim. This guideconsists of two rolls, G H, grooved upon their periphery, and each hungin aholder, I, which holder is arranged to slide longitudinally. in aguide, L, and each in the same plane. A spring, 6, is arranged upon theshank of the holders, the tendency of which is to force the rolls towardthe needle.

The hat is introduced as seen in Fig. 2, the edge of the rim against therollsa and the rolls G H upon the insideof the crown. The

rolls G H serve to press the rim against the rolls a. The feed worksupon the under side of the rim, and which, with the presser-foot above,operates in the usual manner of feeding work in sewing-machines.

To support the hat around its rim, a ring shaped track is arranged, asseen in Fig. 1. In this track are several anti-friction rolls,f, more orless in number, and upon these rolls a ring, h, is arranged to ride uponthe rollsf, the rim of the hat lying upon the ring. The ring extendsover the feed, as seen in Fig. 2, and so that the feed will strike theunder surface of the ring at the same time it strikes the under surfaceof the rim of the hat, and therefore imparts to the ring the samemovement which it imparts to the hat, and this will give a rotativemovement to the hat throughout its entire circumference.

To facilitate the operation of the feed upon the ring,the under surfaceof the ring may be covered with some fabric or flexible materialcorresponding, substantially, to the surface of the hat. The plate,however, may be dispensed with, the rim riding directly upon the rolls,and a very good result be attained.

In case of considerable breadth of rim of the hat it is desirable tobear the rim down upon the feed outside the needle, or to a greaterextent than can be done by the usual pressr-foot. To this end I arrangean auxiliary presser-foot hinged to the head P of the machine, as seenin Fig. 3. This presser-foot holder R is L-shaped, one end hinged uponthe rear of the head, as at Z, and so as to swing to bring the other armto the side of the needle and nearer the crown than the ordinaryprcsser-foot would run. In the holder the presser-foot spindle S isarranged in the usual manner, and carries at its lower end anantifriction roll, m, as seen in Fig. 4. This may be turned into theposition seen in Figs. 2 and 3, so as to bear upon the rim over the ringbeneath; or,when not required for use, it may be turned back out of theway, as indicated in broken lines, Fig. 3.

I have described thus far the invention as a rim being bound with thecrown side up. In many cases it is desirable to bind the rim with theother side up. To this end I make the support for the rim ring-shaped,the opening in the ring being equal to the largest diameter of hat, sothat the crown may drop therein, as indicated in broken lines, Fig. 2,the rim resting on the ring; and in order that the hat may be sointroduced into the ring and attached, the guides for the holders I areattached to an arm, T, which extends outside the ring, and is hinged tothe machine, as at t, so that the guides may be turned up-away fromtheir working position to permit the hat to be introduced throughthe-ring beneath them, and then turned down to take their place on theinside of the crown, as before.

The binder-guide may be attachedin the usual manner; but to facilitatethe introduction of the binding and the adjustment ot'both the hat andbinder, I attach the binder to a bar, a. On the work-plate, beneath thebar a, is a slotted plate, 1", which is secured to the work-plate byscrews 8. The bar 11 is pivoted upon this plate '1", as at u, so thatthe bar a, with the guide, which is attached to it, may be turned uponthe pivot 10 toward or from the needle-that is, to the right or left-andmay be adjusted by means of the slotted plate. It is locked in itsposition by means of a springlatch, 10, which is secured to thework-plate, and lies beneath the bar, and is constructed with aprojection to enter a corresponding notch in the under side of the bar,as seen in broken lines, this latch holding it with sulficient strengthto prevent its accidental displacement, but so that, by simplydepressing the latch to disengage it from the bar, the bar, with itsguide, may be turned away from the rim of the hat as occasion mayrequire. The springlatch is preferably made adjustable by means of aslot and setscrew, as seen in Fig.

1, to adapt itself to the various positions in which the binder-bar maybe set.

I claim 1. In combination with a stitching mechanism, a guide for theouter edge of the rim of the hat, consisting of several rolls, a a,arranged in a plate. or holder, D, a stud, b, on thework-plate,extending up through a slot in the holder D, and a hingedserrated bar, d, arranged to engage and disengage the said stud,substantially as described.

2. The combination of a stitching mechanism, aguide for the outer edgeof the rim, a selfadjusting guide inside the crown at the rim, andanti-friction rolls f, arranged to support the hat by its rim,substantially as described.

3. The combination of a stitching mechanism, a guide for the outer edgeof the rim, a self-adjusting guide inside the crown at the rim,anti-friction rolls f, and the ring h, arranged to ride upon said rollsand over the feed beneath the rim, substantially as described.

4. The combination of a stitching mechanism, a guide for the outer edgeof the rim, a ring to support the rim upon the under side, and aguidearranged to bear upon the inside of the hat at the rim, hinged so as tobe turned upward to permit the introduction of the hat to the ring,substantially as described.

5. The combination of a stitching mechanism, the bar n,carrying thebinder-guide, pivoted to the plate r, said plate r made adj ustable onthe work-plate, and a spring-latch,'w, fixed to the work-plate,andadapted to engage the said bar and hold it in position on thework-plate, substantially as described.

JAS. F. J. GUNNING.

Witnesses:

J. H. SHUMWAY, L. D. KELsEY.

